Why the Return of the Chloé Girl Signals a Boho Revival
For the FW24 season of Paris Fashion Week, Chemena Kamali’s debut collection for Chloé struck a chord so familiar, yet so forgotten, that it left the fashion industry reeling. Searches for the brand soared 91% on Lyst in the week following its reveal, and its impact continued well beyond fashion week, with demand for the label up 21% this quarter, earning Chloé its first-ever appearance on The Lyst Index. As the first diaphanous silhouette floated down the runway, one thing was clear: boho, in all its unapologetic glory, was back — and consumers have embraced it wholeheartedly, with searches for 'boho' related products surging 82% across the platform over the last 3 months.
For her first introduction as Chloé’s new Creative Director, Kamali didn’t shy away from the challenge of swiftly making her mark, deftly navigating the treacherous waters between nostalgia and innovation. In fact, her collection wasn’t merely a nod to the French house’s bohemian aesthetic — it fully embraced it, playing with the textures, feminine frills, and impeccable craftsmanship that have become Chloé’s hallmark.
And it wasn’t just about recreating the past, either: it was about recontextualizing a movement. The collection was a tapestry of earthy tones and gossamer fabrics. Maxi dresses seemed to float on the runway, but were brought back down with richly embroidered suede jackets. Boots were back up to knee height, jewelry was there to make a statement, and bracelet bags were cemented as one of the key accessories for autumn.
So, why now?
In an era dominated by fleeting micro trends and algorithm-driven fashion, the resurgence of boho stands out as a refreshing anomaly. As the first major trend in recent years to originate not from TikTok but from the runways, it’s a testament to the enduring power of high fashion to shape the zeitgeist, and an antidote to the prevailing quiet luxury trend. ‘I think there’s this longing for undone-ness and freedom and softness and movement, and when you look at history, it’s rooted in the ’70s, when people wanted to free themselves from conventions and traditional lifestyles and sexuality,’ Kamali told Vogue Business.
But make no mistake — this isn’t 2005’s boho. ‘In terms of fashion, at some point, boho was overdone and overused; it was past its peak and had gotten really commercial,’ Kamali explains. ‘The industry got tired of it, and it disappeared — but it’s an interesting question because this longing for it comes from wanting to feel that spirit once more. It’s the moment for it again: People want to be themselves, live the way they live — defining your life for yourself.’
This season, it’s all about playing with suggestion and mystery, using sheer fabrics, strategic cutouts, and flowing silhouettes to create an allure that’s more enigmatic than explicit. Fringe and tassels have also made a particularly triumphant return, and been elevated to an art form: they swish from hems of jackets, dance along the edges of dresses, and add movement to otherwise static accessories. And with other designers like Isabel Marant and Rabanne already playing with the aesthetic, it’s clear this joyful, versatile trend is one to keep an eye on.
Ahead, discover the boho pieces worth adding to your closet this fall/winter.
