The Power of Restraint: Decoding Winter's Color Palette

Burgundy in winter might not be the most groundbreaking trend, and yet, this hue has emerged as the undisputed star of the season, with searches spiking 65% this quarter. Falling somewhere between overripe cherries and mulled wine, the shade was a firm favorite on the FW24 runways, signaling a shift toward a richer, more refined, and luxurious color palette.

At Hermès, the tone was immediately set with the collection’s first three looks, when equestrians-turned-bikers walked out in head-to-toe leather ensembles of the deepest burgundy. At Nina Ricci, creative director Harris Reed infused the brand's romantic aesthetic with a modern twist, using the shade to further highlight the collection’s architectural shapes and sharp tailoring. Meanwhile, Victoria Beckham showed its versatility through tailored separates, fluid evening wear, and structured leather accessories.

With connotations of seasonal warmth weaving through its palette, brown has emerged as one of the season's most engaging neutral. Rich, chestnut hues and luxurious mahoganies were everywhere on the FW runways — and searches for brown pieces on Lyst have increased 18% over the last three months.

Ralph Lauren's exploration of brown's golden undertones offered a masterclass in tonal dressing, while Acne Studios' FW24 campaign, featuring Willow Smith, positioned the shade within a contemporary cultural context. Chloé, meanwhile, displayed a softer, more bohemian, and whimsical side to the earthy tone, showcasing models in fringed brown jackets and tasseled shoes, with sheer brown silhouettes framing their looks.

In perhaps FW24's most compelling chromatic disruption, butter yellow has engineered an unprecedented seasonal migration, signaling a larger paradigm shift in how we conceptualize seasonal color parameters.

In stark contrast to the deeper shades of the trending colors this season, pale yellow leather and soft butter-toned suedes have cemented their place in the FW color theory hall of fame. On the runway, Hermès took butter yellow to new heights, with models head to toe in dusty yellow shades, wearing cropped jackets and soft leather ankle boots. Meanwhile, Jacquemus leaned firmly into the world of pastels, with yellow being its most featured color — showcased in bouclé floor-length coats, sculptural leather bags, and chic silk scarves.

Gray, in all its nuanced glory, has stepped out of the shadows and into the spotlight, proving that sometimes the most impactful statements are made in shades of subtlety. But make no mistake — this isn't the drab, corporate grey of yesteryear. This season's gray — for which searches have increased 23% this quarter — is rich, complex, unexpectedly alluring, and anything but boring.

At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri sent models down the runway swathed in layers of dove grey wool and silver-flecked tweed, creating a misty, ethereal effect that was both romantic and powerful. Meanwhile, Demna Gvasalia embraced the darker end of the spectrum at Balenciaga, with graphite-toned oversized coats and charcoal leather accessories that spoke of urban sophistication.

With searches up 12% over the past three months, the last hue stealing the spotlight in the FW24 palette is a deep, cool, and luxurious khaki. Claiming its rightful position as the more composed older sibling of this summer's Brat green, khaki's elevation from utilitarian staple to luxury signifier suggests a maturing of the gorpcore conversation into something more nuanced and commercially viable.

Loewe led the way in establishing the color’s allure, draping models in billowing khaki trousers and belted maxi shirts — along with dressing stars such as Shawn Mendes in full khaki green looks. Saint Laurent's FW24 menswear explored the full spectrum of the hue, with both muted and deep green khaki ties and wide-leg tailored suits. The rise of khaki outerwear also wasn't missed by Isabel Marant, who sent models storming down platforms in fringed suede khaki jackets and sweeping trench coats.