The Return of the ‘80s Puff
In a cyclical fashion twist that would make Carrie Bradshaw proud, the '80s puffball dress is strutting its way back into our wardrobes. The voluminous silhouette, characterized by a gathered hemline that creates a balloon-like effect, is experiencing a renaissance that's equal parts nostalgia and modern reinterpretation.
Once a staple of Reagan-era excess, the puffball skirt (also called ‘bubble’ or ‘balloon’) has been reimagined for today's fashion landscape — and with great success. After going viral on TikTok and generating over 61.6M posts, searches for AmyLynn’s puffball dress spiked 53% in April, cementing the London-based label’s status as a key player in the contemporary fashion scene. Established designers like Aaron Esh, Molly Goddard, Tory Burch, Alaïa and Staud have also fully embraced the playful shape in their collections, infusing it with contemporary fabrics and styling cues. The result? A fresh take on retro glamour that feels both familiar and unexpected. But what, exactly, is driving this return to volume?
After years of loungewear dominance — followed by the rise of the quiet luxury trend — it seems shoppers are once again looking to embrace the fun side of fashion. With its inherent whimsy, the puffball perfectly fits the bill, and searches for the silhouette have increased 95% on Lyst this quarter.
As with any trend revival, the key is in the update. Today's puffballs come in sustainable fabrics, tech-forward textiles, and with modern construction techniques that make them more wearable than their '80s predecessors; they’re a nod to the past, with a firm foot in the present. And as for the styling? Well, it’s all about juxtaposition. The balance of proportions is key to avoiding the costume-like pitfalls that can come with revisiting such a trend, and toning down the voluminous silhouette with more streamlined pieces — like a tailored blazer — is what will allow you to make this trend work for everyday life.
So, whether you're a longtime fan of the silhouette or a newcomer to its charms, the puffball's return offers a chance to embrace a little sartorial drama; and if you’re ready to give it a go, we’ve rounded up some of the best puffball pieces you can buy now.
